Climbing Gold cover image

Climbing Gold

The Greatest Lie Chapter 2: Disneyland

Oct 20, 2023
Climber Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with controversial methods to conquer the mountain. The controversy surrounding the compressor route and doubts about Maestri's ascent are explored. The discovery of Tony Edgar's remains raises questions. Contrasting climbing terrain exposes a lie in Patagonia. Jim Birdwell and Steve Brewer's successful climb challenges Maestri's claims.
41:26

Podcast summary created with Snipd AI

Quick takeaways

  • Maier Street's claims of climbing Saratore in Patagonia were proven to be false, raising questions about climbing ethics and the impact of technology on natural challenges.
  • The controversy surrounding Maier Street's false claims sparked a debate about climbing ethics and led to a new generation of climbers seeking alternative routes that provide a more pure and challenging ascent.

Deep dives

The Controversial Climb of Saratore

The podcast episode delves into the controversy surrounding the supposed ascent of Saratore in Patagonia by Maier Street in 1959. Despite doubts and skepticism from the climbing community, Maier Street continued to claim that he had climbed the mountain. In 1970, he made another attempt, this time with a big team and sponsorship from a construction company. He used a compressor and bolts to forge a new route up Saratore, which became known as the compressor route. However, subsequent climbers began to question Maier Street's claims, as they found no evidence of his passage on the upper parts of the route. Finally, in 2005, climbers successfully reached the summit of Saratore from the north face, providing conclusive evidence that Maier Street's claims were false.

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