Climber Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with controversial methods to conquer the mountain. The controversy surrounding the compressor route and doubts about Maestri's ascent are explored. The discovery of Tony Edgar's remains raises questions. Contrasting climbing terrain exposes a lie in Patagonia. Jim Birdwell and Steve Brewer's successful climb challenges Maestri's claims.
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Quick takeaways
Maier Street's claims of climbing Saratore in Patagonia were proven to be false, raising questions about climbing ethics and the impact of technology on natural challenges.
The controversy surrounding Maier Street's false claims sparked a debate about climbing ethics and led to a new generation of climbers seeking alternative routes that provide a more pure and challenging ascent.
Deep dives
The Controversial Climb of Saratore
The podcast episode delves into the controversy surrounding the supposed ascent of Saratore in Patagonia by Maier Street in 1959. Despite doubts and skepticism from the climbing community, Maier Street continued to claim that he had climbed the mountain. In 1970, he made another attempt, this time with a big team and sponsorship from a construction company. He used a compressor and bolts to forge a new route up Saratore, which became known as the compressor route. However, subsequent climbers began to question Maier Street's claims, as they found no evidence of his passage on the upper parts of the route. Finally, in 2005, climbers successfully reached the summit of Saratore from the north face, providing conclusive evidence that Maier Street's claims were false.
The Growing Doubts and Challenges
Over the years, climbers attempted to repeat Maier Street's routes on Saratore and discovered that the southeast ridge and the north face did not match the descriptions provided by Maier Street. This raised further doubts about his claims. It also sparked a debate about climbing ethics and the impact of the compressor route on the mountain's natural challenges. Climbing in Patagonia, especially in Saratore, was known for its extreme weather conditions and remote location, which added to the adventure and difficulty of the climbs.
The Rise of New Climbers in Patagonia
With the emergence of the internet and improved weather forecasting, a new generation of climbers started visiting Patagonia. They aimed to climb Saratore and other peaks without relying on the compressor route. These climbers sought to embrace the natural challenges of the mountains and preferred fair means of ascent. In 2005, a climb on the north face of Saratore provided significant evidence that Maier Street had not climbed the mountain. This marked a turning point in the climbing community's acceptance and acknowledgment of the false claims surrounding Maier Street's ascent.
Conclusion: The Legacy of Maier Street's Controversial Claims
The legacy of Maier Street's controversial claims looms over the climbing community in Saratore. While the compressor route continues to be debated for its impact on the mountain's natural challenges, it has become the most popular way to summit Saratore due to its relative accessibility. Nevertheless, climbers are increasingly looking for alternative routes that do not rely on bolts and machinery, seeking to honor the natural difficulty and purity of the mountain. The story of Maier Street serves as a cautionary tale and an example of the importance climbers place on integrity, ethics, and respecting the challenges posed by the mountains they climb.
With doubts circling in the press, Cesare Maestri returns to Cerro Torre with hundreds of bolts, a compressor engine and gallons of gasoline intent on conquering the mountain. What ensues borders on madness leaving the next generation to untangle Maestri’s lies and correct an abomination.