Acclaimed costume designer Jenny Beavan shares her experiences working with the Merchant Ivory troupe, reusing clothing for characters, and the stories that costumes tell. She reflects on adapting after being deceived on a project and offers advice to aspiring costume designers.
Costumes should reflect the experiences and history of the characters wearing them, emphasizing the importance of distressing and aging costumes for authenticity.
Collaboration between costume designers, hair, and makeup departments is crucial in creating the overall look and feel of a character.
Creating a sense of realism and authenticity should be the focus of costume design, with attention to detail enhancing the storytelling.
Deep dives
Jenny Bevan's Journey into Costume Design
Jenny Bevan, a renowned costume designer, shares her unlikely journey into the world of costume design. Despite never being interested in clothes, she fell in love with theater at a young age and used clothing as her medium for storytelling. Her career started by working with Merchant Ivory on films such as 'Halliblue', where she created costumes for Dame Peggy Ashcroft. She eventually became a part of the Merchant Ivory family and worked on various period films. Bevan also discusses her experience working on films like 'Cruella' and 'Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris', where she had to create stunning and iconic outfits. She emphasizes the importance of collaboration with actors, directors, and other departments in bringing a film's vision to life.
The Art of Distressing and Aging Costumes
Jenny Bevan highlights the significance of distressing and aging costumes to make them look more authentic and lived-in. She believes that costumes should never look too perfect and that they need to reflect the experiences and history of the characters wearing them. Bevan shares her techniques for distressing costumes, such as washing fabrics, dying them, and using various aging methods. She acknowledges that renting costumes may limit these possibilities, but emphasizes the importance of finding authentic and well-worn pieces. Bevan also discusses the collaboration between costume designers and hair and makeup departments, as they work together to create the overall look and feel of a character.
Balancing Budgets and Creativity
Jenny Bevan reflects on the challenges of working with different budgets and the balance between creativity and financial constraints. She shares her experiences working on both small-budget and large-budget films, highlighting the different stresses each presents. Bevan mentions the importance of open communication with directors and finding ways to effectively convey ideas, such as using visual references and mood boards. She discusses her approach to period films, incorporating both rented and custom-made costumes, and the need to age and distress them appropriately. Despite the challenges, Bevan finds joy in her work and strives to create a fun and collaborative environment on set.
The Importance of Realism and Subtlety in Costume Design
When it comes to costume design, the focus should be on creating a sense of realism and authenticity. The costume should not stand out or draw attention away from the story. Jenny Beavan, a renowned costume designer, believes that the more true and accurate the costumes are, the more believable the characters become. Over-the-top costumes may get noticed, but subtlety and attention to detail are key in creating costumes that enhance the storytelling.
Challenges in the Film Industry and the Role of a Costume Designer
Working as a costume designer in the film industry can be extremely challenging, both in terms of the demanding working hours and the need to constantly adapt to different directors' styles and visions. Jenny Beavan recounts her experiences working with various directors, highlighting the importance of good communication and diplomacy when collaborating on a film. She emphasizes the fact that costume designers not only dress the actors but also provide emotional support and help build the characters. Despite the challenges, Beavan finds immense satisfaction in her work and encourages aspiring costume designers to develop a wide range of skills and pursue their passion for the craft.
Acclaimed costume designer Jenny Beavan (MAD MAX: FURY ROAD, CURELLA, A ROOM WITH A VIEW) joins us for a conversation about her craft on this episode of the Team Deakins Podcast. Hailing from England, Jenny shares how she fell in with the famed Merchant Ivory troupe, and she describes spending her early formative professional years traveling around the world and working alongside the legendary filmmakers. We later consider how, just as with real people, characters reuse clothing and how some costume pieces take on a life of their own. Jenny also reflects on how she adapts after having the wool pulled over her eyes on a project and how designing costumes is never about the clothes themselves but about the stories they tell. At the end, Jenny is generous enough to offer salient advice to budding costume designers.
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This episode is sponsored by Dallas Film Commission
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