The Current

Why is non-alcoholic wine so bad?

Jan 14, 2026
Wes Pearson, a senior research scientist at the Australian Wine Research Institute, dives into the world of non-alcoholic wines. He explains how removing alcohol alters flavor and aroma, often leading to bitter or overly sweet outcomes. Wes discusses why low-alcohol beers perform better and identifies which wines adapt best, like whites and sparkling varieties. He also shares the challenges winemakers face in innovating de-alcoholized options, all while offering intriguing alternatives like sparkling teas and kombuchas to satisfy adult palates.
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INSIGHT

Alcohol Is Part Of Wine's DNA

  • Removing ethanol dramatically alters wine because alcohol makes up a large fraction of wine's chemistry and sensory profile.
  • What's left after de-alcoholization often doesn't resemble the original wine's aroma, taste, or mouthfeel.
INSIGHT

Ethanol Shapes Mouthfeel And Perception

  • Ethanol contributes mouthfeel, a burning sensation, and subtle sensory effects that shape how we perceive wine.
  • No other single compound replicates ethanol's combined tactile and psychotropic contributions.
INSIGHT

Why Non-Alcoholic Beer Fares Better

  • Beer producers have more process levers and ingredients to recreate alcohol's effects, and beer starts with lower alcohol to remove.
  • Those factors make non-alcoholic beer closer to the original than de-alcoholized wine tends to be.
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