Michael Twitty on The American South

On this episode of Cooking Issues, Dave Arnold welcomes culinary historian and award-winning author Michael Twitty to discuss his new book The American South. Twitty shares stories of growing up with Southern food traditions, his deep research into the region’s culinary roots, and how gardening, foraging, and heritage recipes shaped his perspective on what “Southern food” really means.

The conversation ranges from okra soup, red rice, and long-simmered green beans to the history of sweet tea, sassafras, poke salad, and rice bread. Twitty explains how dishes evolved across communities—African American, Indigenous, European, and immigrant—and why understanding migrations is key to understanding Southern cuisine. He also reflects on the challenges of translating historical recipes for modern cooks, the impact of changing agriculture on flavor, and the importance of reclaiming overlooked foodways.

Along the way, the crew trades stories about Taiwan’s cocktail bars, bison steaks, and Maryland fried chicken, while diving into listener questions on how to approach historic cookbooks and balance authenticity with adaptation.

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