New EU legislation aims to make fashion more sustainable by banning unsold stock incineration and implementing digital passports for products. The impact of unsold garments is examined at Ghana's Kantamanto market. The role of extended producer responsibility policies in addressing fashion waste is discussed. Challenges of recycling fashion waste and efforts made by brands to be sustainable are explored. The upcoming eco design regulation and the readiness of brands and infrastructure are questioned.
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Quick takeaways
The EU is introducing legislation to ban the incineration of unsold goods and implement digital passports for tracking and monitoring fashion products, aiming to make the industry more sustainable.
The fashion industry faces challenges in recycling due to inadequate infrastructure and the need for a shift towards a circular model, requiring collection, sorting, and complex textile recycling processes.
Deep dives
New EU rules aim to make fashion more sustainable
The podcast explores the new rules introduced by the EU to make the fashion industry more sustainable. The fashion sector is a significant polluter, contributing to 10% of global carbon emissions. Overproduction and unsold inventory are major issues in the industry, with 30% of clothes made never being sold. The new legislation prohibits the destruction of unsold stock and encourages recycling. However, the lack of recycling infrastructure and the need for systemic change pose challenges for the industry.
Recycling and the challenges it presents
The podcast discusses the recycling process in the fashion industry. It highlights a textile recycling company in Sweden called Renew Cell, which utilizes a multi-step process to separate and recycle fabrics. However, textile recycling faces challenges due to the complexity of the process and the need for additional steps, such as collection and sorting. The infrastructure for textile recycling is currently insufficient, and the industry needs to transition from a linear to a circular model.
Implications and limitations of the new rules
The podcast explores the implications and limitations of the new EU rules. While the ban on destroying unsold stock is a positive step, there are concerns about the effectiveness of extended producer responsibility policies. The example of France's policy, charging a low fee per garment, shows that it does not cover the true cost of waste management. Additionally, the lack of infrastructure and the accessibility of sustainable fashion at higher price points are challenges that need to be addressed for the fashion industry to achieve true sustainability.
More than a quarter of all clothes made are never actually sold - where do they go?
We look into new legislation being finalised by the EU, to try and make fashion more sustainable.
There will be a ban on the incineration of unsold goods and each product will need a digital passport so it can be tracked and its lifetime monitored.
Hannah Mullane speaks to businesses across Europe about whether they think the industry is ready for these kind of changes.
We also head to Ghana, to the Kantamanto market - the biggest second-hand market in the world, to understand the impact the fashion worlds unsold garments can have.
Presented and produced by Hannah Mullane
(Picture credit: A pair of shoes hang over power lines at the Kantamanto market in Accra, November 2022. REUTERS/Francis Kokoroko)
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