When Zebras Taught Me to Drive in Namibia

Imagine this: You’re slowly driving through Etosha National Park, Namibia’s renowned conservation area. There are elephants and zebras and antelopes and lions all around you. In fact, you’ve been warned not to exit your car because of those very lions, which are pros at camouflaging themselves in the desert landscape. And then your car stalls—because you don’t really know how to drive it. 

That’s the situation that this week’s storyteller, Nicolle Galteland (also known as Nikki) faced on a year-long, round-the-world trip that included a week in Namibia. If that name sounds familiar, it’s because Nikki is Afar’s podcast engineer, and in this episode she steps in front of the mic to tell her tale.

At age 23, Nikki applied for, and received, a special solo travel grant that allowed a certain number of undergrad and graduate students to travel around the world for a year, provided they did it totally on their own. Her itinerary included Tajikistan and Zambia, Thailand and Singapore, and getting around mostly involved planes or trains. But in Namibia she knew she wanted to do a road trip, and at the time the only cars available had a manual transmission. Which she didn’t know how to operate. But she’d always wanted to learn, so she recruited a few helpers, mapped out a course, and lurched off into the desert sunset. Hundreds of zebras, dozens of stalls, and one flat tire later, she found her way. 

And don’t miss our companion YouTube interview, where Nikki shares more about the grant, how this episode reinvigorated her love of wildlife—and gets on her soapbox about the ways that traveling solo as a woman can change your life. 

Resources

Read the transcript of the episode.

Listen to the companion Q&A on YouTube. 

Explore more of Nikki’s work on her website. 

Listen to Looters, the sci-fi/Western role-playing podcast that Nikki coproduces with her husband, Drew. 

Be sure to subscribe to the show and to sign up for our podcast newsletter, Behind the Mic, where we share upcoming news and behind-the-scenes details of each episode. And explore our second podcast, Unpacked, which unpacks a tricky topic in travel each week.