“It’s about trying to paint pictures – of different places, different moments in time, throughout China’s past.”

Andrew Wong grew up helping out in his parents’ Chinese restaurant in central London, convinced that he would never work in hospitality himself. But the “magic” of the industry drew him in – and today he’s chef-patron of a restaurant on the very same site as his parents’ place, but totally transformed.

In the decade or so since its launch, A.Wong has built a reputation for lunchtime dim sum, with an evening menu showcasing imaginative interpretations of regional and historical delicacies: from ‘Barbecued Forbidden City Sweetcorn with Wagyu Beef Meat Paste and Truffle’ to ‘Toasted Sweet Potato with Salted Black Bean Sauce, Black Tapioca and Liquorice Soy’. It’s also the first Chinese restaurant outside Asia to have earned two Michelin stars.

Jaega Wise visits the Pimlico restaurant to find out how Andrew’s fascination with China’s food heritage has inspired this unique dining experience; one that seeks to bring to life a rich and diverse culinary culture.

We also hear from cook and food writer Fuchsia Dunlop, who specialises in Chinese gastronomy and has written six books on the country’s cuisine; and Dr Mukta Das, a research associate for the Food Studies Centre at London’s SOAS University, focusing on Chinese food and culture – who collaborates with Andrew to dig into dishes and delicacies from the past.

Presented by Jaega Wise Producer by Lucy Taylor in Bristol