History of Coffee: from devil’s brew to our favourite beverage
Apr 4, 2025
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Jonathan Morris, a research professor in history specializing in coffee, teams up with comedian Sophie Duker to unravel the rich tapestry of coffee's past. They explore its intriguing origins in Ethiopia and Yemen, debunk myths like the Pope's label of 'devil’s brew', and highlight its rise in 17th-century Europe with coffee houses as hubs of intellectual exchange. Fun anecdotes reveal coffee's role in the American Civil War and its evolution into a cultural icon. Prepare for a lively discussion filled with history, humor, and caffeinated insights!
Coffee originates from Ethiopia, where it began as a natural resource before evolving into a cultivated beverage in Yemen.
The establishment of coffeehouses in the 15th century fostered social and intellectual exchanges, influencing democratic and scientific progress in Europe.
The 20th century transformed coffee culture with technological innovations and a shift towards specialty brews, emphasizing sustainability and ethical sourcing.
Deep dives
The Origins of Coffee
The history of coffee traces back to Ethiopia, where the coffee plant, primarily Arabica, thrives in the wild amongst forest canopies. Its discovery is often attributed to a goat herder named Kaldi, who noticed his goats became energetic after consuming the berries of the coffee shrub. These berries, referred to as cherries, contain caffeine, which serves to repel insects while attracting pollinators like bees. The beverage began to take shape when local scholars transformed these berries into a drink, marking the beginning of coffee's journey from a natural resource to a cultivated crop in Yemen.
Coffee and Islamic Culture
Coffee gained prominence in Yemen during the 15th century, leading to the establishment of coffeehouses that became central to social and cultural exchanges. However, the drink faced scrutiny within Islamic debates regarding its intoxicating effects, prompting trials to determine its permissibility. Despite initial resistance, these gatherings soon fostered intellectual discussions, inspiring philosophical debates and social interactions similar to taverns in Europe. Consequently, coffee emerged as a symbol of social connectivity, particularly among scholars and students, who valued its stimulating properties for late-night study sessions.
Coffee's European Introduction
By the 17th century, coffee made its way into Europe through trade routes, initially introduced by merchants and travelers returning from the Middle East. The first recorded instance of coffee in England was noted by a clergyman in the city of Aleppo, with the first coffee houses sprouting in London soon after. These establishments quickly became centers of social and commercial interactions, laying the groundwork for modern cafés. Significant figures in the realms of science and politics gathered in these coffeehouses, contributing to the foundational ideas of democracy and scientific progress, further elevating coffee's status in European society.
Colonialism and Coffee Plantations
The increasing demand for coffee during the 18th century prompted European powers to establish plantations in their colonies, resulting in tragic exploitation. The Dutch were the first to cultivate coffee outside its native regions, planting it in Java, while the French brought it to the Caribbean, often employing enslaved labor. This produced a substantial supply, with the Caribbean contributing to around 80% of the world’s coffee by the late 18th century. The legacy of these plantations reveals the complex intertwining of coffee culture with colonial exploitation, a contradiction that persists in today's global coffee trade.
The Rise of Modern Coffee Culture
The 20th century saw major changes in coffee consumption including technological innovations that facilitated home coffee brewing and the rise of brands such as Starbucks in the 1970s. This era introduced a shift towards specialty coffees, emphasizing quality and unique flavor profiles, elevating coffee to a premium product comparable to fine wines. Furthermore, the global coffee market witnessed an increase in consumption and production within producing countries themselves, breaking historical patterns of colonial trade. As a result, modern coffee culture reflects a blend of tradition, innovation, and evolving consumer preferences, with a growing emphasis on sustainability and ethical sourcing.
Greg Jenner is joined by Professor Jonathan Morris and comedian Sophie Duker to learn all about the bittersweet history of coffee.
Coffee is undoubtedly one of the most popular drinks worldwide, and we consume an estimated 95 million cups of the stuff everyday in the UK alone. But where does coffee come from, and when did we start enjoying its caffeinated effects? From its origins in medieval Ethiopia and Yemen, through the coffeehouses of the Middle East and Europe, to its central importance to soldiers during the American Civil War, this episode traces the complex history of our favourite beverage. Along the way, it explores the uses people have had for coffee over the years, in religious rituals, as a stimulant to intellectual exchange, and even as a medicine. We also debunk some of the myths that have been brewed up about coffee’s history. Did the Pope really call it ‘the devil’s brew’? Was it discovered by an Ethiopian goatherd? And did a Dutch man really have to smuggle coffee trees out of Yemen? Listen to find out!
If you’re a fan of delicious disputes over food, wild medical treatments from centuries past and murky historical myths, you’ll love our episode on the history of coffee.
If you want more from Sophie Duker, check out our episodes on Benedetta Carlini or the Chevalier de Saint-Georges. And for more on culinary creations of the past, listen to our episodes on the history of chocolate and ice cream.
You’re Dead To Me is the comedy podcast that takes history seriously. Every episode, Greg Jenner brings together the best names in history and comedy to learn and laugh about the past.
Hosted by: Greg Jenner
Research by: Matt Ryan
Written by: Emmie Rose Price-Goodfellow, Emma Nagouse, and Greg Jenner
Produced by: Emmie Rose Price-Goodfellow and Greg Jenner
Audio Producer: Steve Hankey
Production Coordinator: Ben Hollands
Senior Producer: Emma Nagouse
Executive Editor: James Cook
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