The Science of Coffee Coffee Quality, Part 3: When the “quality” myth hits the farm
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Dec 8, 2025 The conversation dives into the 2004 cupping form and its impact on coffee quality perceptions among producers. It highlights the struggles of two coffee farmers whose livelihoods were affected by the myth of a universal quality standard. One story reveals how a producer's investments led to financial collapse due to misaligned buyer expectations. Another narrative showcases a Puerto Rican farmer innovating with novel flavors, only to face criticism from local cuppers. The introduction of the Coffee Value Assessment aims to empower producers with a broader evaluation approach.
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Scoring Made Quality Seem Universal
- The 2004 cupping form created a near-universal definition of coffee quality measured by points.
- That scoring system shaped buyer behavior and made “quality” feel objective across the industry.
Power Shapes The Definition Of Quality
- Buyers in the global north hold disproportionate power over millions of small coffee producers.
- When buyers adopt a single scoring system, they effectively set the rules producers must follow to earn income.
Murray Cooper’s Farm Failure
- Murray Cooper invested heavily to produce specialty coffees and paid harvesters premium wages to pick ripe cherries.
- Despite the investment, his exporter undervalued his lots and he later ran out of cash and sold the farm.
