J. Crew and the Romance of the Rollneck Sweater

My guest on the show today is Maggie Bullock, author of Kingdom of Prep, the Inside Story of The Rise and (Near) Fall of J Crew. Maggie’s also the co-author of the Substack newsletter The Spread, which offers an insider’s look and cultural commentary on the world of women’s magazines.

Maggie and I talk primarily about the subject of her book, J Crew, which holds a special place in my heart, brain and psyche. We talk about our own respective experiences of preppy culture, particularly in high school, and about how fashion relates to issues of politics, race, culture, weight, history, class, psychology, and more. We talk about the key figures in the creation of the two J Crew golden ages, first the founding visionaries, Arthur Cinader and his daughter Emily Cinader, and then the saviors of the brand after it was wrecked by private equity, retail wiz Mickey Drexler and chief designer Jenna Lyons.

It's a really interesting conversation, I think, even if you’re not interested in clothes in the way that Maggie and I are.

The Rise, Fall, and Resurgence of J. Crew: An Insider's Look

In this episode of Eminent Americans, host Dan Oppenheimer interviews Maggie Bullock, author of 'Kingdom of Prep: The Inside Story of The Rise and Fall of J. Crew.' They explore the fascinating history of J. Crew, from its founding by Arthur and Emily Senatore, its evolution and perfectionism, to its tumultuous relationship with private equity and eventual decline. The discussion also delves into the cultural impact of the brand, its transformation under Mickey Drexler and Jenna Lyons, and the intersection of fashion with issues such as race, class, and gender. The episode is dedicated to Dan's late friend, Aaron Hess, and his iconic J. Crew role-neck sweater.

00:39 Diving into J Crew: A Brand Close to Our Hearts

00:50 Exploring Preppy Culture and Fashion's Broader Impact

01:26 Dedication to a Friend

01:55 Welcoming Maggie Bullock

02:36 The Kingdom of Prep: J Crew's Story

03:33 The Business and Cultural Evolution of J Crew

06:31 Private Equity and Its Impact on Fashion

08:52 The Origins and Growth of J Crew

18:52 Personal Reflections on Preppy Culture

23:59 The Iconic Role Neck Sweater

30:44 Landing Supermodel Linda Evangelista

34:06 The Fashion Moment That Elevated J Crew

34:36 The Influence of Male Models

36:05 J Crew's Cultural Impact in Schools

39:45 The Perfectionism of J Crew's Founders

43:52 Mickey Drexler's Turnaround Strategy

57:03 Jenna Lyons' Creative Vision

01:02:50 The Challenges of High Fashion

01:06:17 The Resilience of Preppy Style

01:08:53 Conclusion and Future Prospects

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