the Sharp End Podcast Ep 108 - Emergency Bivy in Chamonix - Steve van Zutphen
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Dec 30, 2024 Steve van Zutphen is an experienced climber, skier, and mountain biker who shares his near-fatal experience in the Chamonix range. He recounts a terrifying night spent stranded in an ice cave while battling severe weather conditions. The conversation dives into the mental toll of hypothermia, the struggle for survival, and the critical lessons learned about self-rescue and safety in outdoor adventures. Steve also reflects on the importance of community, resilience, and thoughtful decision-making in high-risk situations.
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Storm Hit After A Christmas Climb
- Steve and Rémy climbed in Chamonix on Dec 25 and reached the glacier via the cable car before a storm hit.
- They summited a couloir, began downclimbing, and were struck by a severe whiteout and freezing temps.
Emergency Ice Cave Bivvy
- With no bivy gear they dug an ice cave using their shovels and squeezed into a one-person bivvy bag together.
- Steve's down jacket had frozen after a leaking bottle, and the emergency blanket fell apart when unfolded.
Hypothermia Blunts Judgment And Motor Skills
- Hypothermia crept in slowly and degraded thinking and motor skills, causing poor decisions and inaction.
- Steve realized he couldn’t reliably self-assess or perform small tasks while cold and slow-minded.