The Powers That Be: Daily Best of Puck: Goodbye, Mr. Armani, Hello Chloe Malle
Dec 24, 2025
Gene Pressman, a fashion visionary and grandson of the Barneys New York founder, shares insights from his memoir about the retail giant's cultural impact. He reflects on Barneys’ rise amid the creative revolution of the 1960s and 70s, revealing how they championed emerging designers. Meanwhile, Jessica Testa discusses the legacy of Giorgio Armani and the strategic appointment of Chloe Malle at American Vogue, focusing on the need for journalism over spectacle and a more audience-centric approach. Together, they navigate the shifting landscape of fashion and retail.
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Armani's Lasting, Controlled Influence
- Giorgio Armani built a distinct, controlled vision that reshaped how Americans dressed and how fashion shows felt.
- His late start and relentless consistency show that influence can grow from patience and mastery.
Vogue Shift: Strategy Over Shock
- Vogue's new head of editorial content, Chloe Malle, was chosen for strategic audience stewardship more than flashy creative overhaul.
- The role prioritizes journalism, frequency changes, and cautious transformation under Anna Wintour's trust.
Extend Media With Commerce And Memberships
- Pursue diversified revenue: events, memberships, commerce, and product lines extend media brands beyond advertising.
- Build consumer products tied to brand identity rather than relying solely on content monetization.