Lexicon Valley Derek Guy on the Language of Clothing
Jan 20, 2026
Derek Guy, a writer and commentator renowned for his insights on men's fashion, dives deep into the intriguing language of clothing. He explains the distinctions between coats and overcoats, emphasizing the ideal features of a coat. Derek traces the origins of the sport coat and details how fashion choices signify social status, including the unique role of elbow patches. He also highlights the evolution of styles like parkas and puffers, linking them to cultural movements. It's a fascinating look at how our attire communicates who we are.
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What Defines A Coat
- Coats are generally garments longer than jackets, often mid-thigh or longer and heavier than jackets.
- Tailors distinguish topcoats (lighter, ~18–22 oz) from overcoats (heavier, >22 oz).
The Classic Dress Coat Image
- A platonic dress coat often reaches the knees, has a collar or lapels, and may use raglan (sudden) sleeves.
- Such coats can be single- or double-breasted and represent classic dress styles now less common with declining tailored wear.
Pick Raglan Sleeves For Weather Protection
- Choose a raglan sleeve coat if you need better weather protection and want to button to the neck.
- Prefer raglan over set-in sleeves for preventing water pooling at the shoulder seam despite harder fitting challenges.
