Everest '96: Trapped in the Death Zone | Big Business | 5
Jul 30, 2024
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Will Cockrell, a journalist and author of "Everest, Inc.,” discusses the transformation of climbing Everest from an elite pursuit to a booming commercial venture. He explores safety concerns tied to increased climber traffic and the complexities of the guiding industry. Cockrell dispels myths about climbers' motivations, highlights the Sherpas' evolving roles, and addresses the economic ramifications for local communities. Intriguingly, he reflects on the tragic events of the 1996 disaster and how they paradoxically spurred more guided climbs, illustrating the mountain's enduring allure.
The evolution of the Everest climbing industry has shifted from elite climbers to a thriving market for novice adventurers.
The role of Sherpa guides has transformed from porters to recognized leaders, elevating their economic opportunities and professional status.
Deep dives
The Transformation of Everest Climbing
The climbing industry on Everest has undergone significant transformation over recent decades. Initially, the mountain was primarily the domain of elite climbers, with only a handful of individuals summiting each year. However, the introduction of guided expeditions in the early 1990s led to a dramatic increase in climbers, resulting in an average of twelve summits annually. This surge in traffic has raised concerns about safety, as more novice climbers venture to the peak, contributing to an alarming number of fatalities in certain years.
The Role of Sherpas in Mountaineering
The relationship between Western climbers and Sherpa guides has evolved from a traditional employer-employee model to a more balanced partnership. Initially, many Sherpas served primarily as porters, often receiving less compensation compared to their Western counterparts. As the guiding industry developed, Sherpas became acknowledged for their exceptional abilities at high altitudes, leading to greater economic opportunities and a push for their training and certification. This shift has empowered Sherpas to transition from being laborers to taking on leadership roles within their own guiding companies.
Dick Bass and the Seven Summits Influence
Dick Bass played a pivotal role in reshaping the perception of Everest from a challenge for elite climbers to a destination for more casual adventurers. His quest to climb the tallest peaks on each continent, known as the Seven Summits, positioned Everest not merely as a mountaineering goal but as an achievable milestone for a broader audience. While Bass was not a professional climber, his success on Everest in 1985, alongside leading climber David Breshears, marked a significant moment in guiding history. His charismatic media presence further popularized the notion that climbing Everest was about persistence rather than technical prowess, thus encouraging more climbers to attempt the ascent.
The Impact of Media on Climbing Culture
Media coverage, particularly through narratives like John Krakauer's 'Into Thin Air,' has shaped public perceptions of Everest climbing and influenced its popularity. While Krakauer provided an emotional account of the 1996 tragedy, his portrayal prompted debates about who is 'qualified' to climb the mountain and whether guided expeditions should exist at all. Interestingly, rather than deterring climbers, these reports often fueled interest and participation, as the allure of danger and adventure attracts individuals from various backgrounds. The ongoing fascination with Everest continues to grow, drawing not only seasoned adventurers but also those seeking personal transformation through extreme experiences.
When Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summited Mount Everest in 1953, high-altitude climbing was only done by the most elite mountaineers. But that changed in the early 1990s, when veteran climbers began leading amateur clients up the world’s tallest mountain for a hefty fee. Today, journalist Will Cockrell joins Host Cassie De Pecol to talk about the history of the Everest guiding industry – from the early Western-led companies to the Nepali-owned ventures today. Cockrell is the author of Everest, Inc.: The Renegades and Rogues who Built an Industry at the Top of the World.
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