Episode 128: Wind, Deserts, and Coasts
The Science of Everything Podcast
00:00
What Is the Wave Breaking Process?
After breaking, the waves continue to move in and now they run up the sloping front of the beach. The water then runs back out again to the ocean in the backwash. This combination of diagonal in, but straight out, results in a gradual pushing of the sand along the shore. And this tends to result in land forms called spits. A spit is a deposition bar it's basically a big hunk of sand that's beeng moved offva of a coast by the effect longshore current.
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