Cold Water Surfing with Pete Devries
Wild Ideas Worth Living
00:00
Surfing - Is There Something About Barrels?
I've been doing all this scientific research on barrels and why they make you feel so different. I think for me, it's like that feeling of being really deep behind a peak. You don't know if you're going to make the drop or not. That's the best thing in surving. But, you know, you're like hearts in your throat when you're dropping in.you're either going to get smashed into the reef, or i'm coming out of this thing standing straight up.
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