Episode #33: Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
The Science of Climbing
The science is pretty much there. It's not 100%. But remember what I said at the start of the podcast? Science has never settled. This is still, you know, it hasn't been fully eludicated. There are ongoing studies as we speak. And if it's being used with professional athletes, athletes being paid millions of dollars a year, you know it works. Those pro athletes are the early adapters of new technology, no matter what it is. If you're making 10 million a year playing football or baseball or if a team has invested that in you, they are doing everything in their power to help their athletes become injury proof.
Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers!
The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew health, strength, and performance?
This is an information-rich podcast that might require a couple of listens...to determine how you can best apply and benefit from this new material. The next three podcasts will expand on this topic with details on specific training interventions for strengthening (and rehabbing) sore or tweaked tendons and pulleys. If you are a proactive, early adapter kind of person, then this is cutting-edge information I'm sure you'll be all over...like chalk on a crux hold!
A final note: If you enjoy this podcast, then please share it with a friend, post to social media, or write a review. Thank you!
Rundown
1:00 – Introduction to a new series of podcasts on sinew training—how to develop stronger, stiffer, healthier tendons and ligaments. This is the first of four episodes in the series…breaking new ground that I feel is revolutionary for climbers.
3:00 – Tendons and ligaments are not inert—they change and adapt to training in adulthood, but at a much slower rate than muscles do. And, sinew training requires unique training modalities and nutritional interventions. PhysiVāntage
5:20 – A quick rundown of the next 3 episodes in this series….and the exciting ground I’ll be covering.
7:00 – Eric gives a brief introduction of himself and his background for new listeners. Additional comments of recent advances in training for climbing.
10:10 – A reflection on last year’s series of podcasts on Energy System Training—powerful material for intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. If you haven’t already, listen to these podcasts! # ???
13:00 – Introduction to sinew training…and the exciting new sport science I’m bringing to the climbing world in this series of podcasts.
15:30 – The importance of training to avoid injury and stay healthy, so that you can reach your goals! There’s a huge cost to injuries…lost seasons, missed competitions, setbacks and lost seasons.
20:00 – There are decades of knowledge gathered and distributed on muscle training and adaptations…but until recently there’s little research and scant instruction on sinew training.
23:00 – The importance of staying curious! Embracing and applying the latest research is key to progress and breakthroughs in most complex fields/endeavors.
28:00 – Three findings of my two years of research into sinew health and sinew training.
28:30 – Finding #1: Sinew is plastic. Tendons, ligaments, and extracellular muscle matrix change, adapt, and remodel very slowly…and you can play a role in this process!
34:00 – Distinct training and nutritional interventions do influence sinew health, strength, and performance.
35:00 – Finding #2: Tendons can hypertrophy. In certain situations, chronic mechanical loading can lead to slightly hypertrophy over years of exercise. Research has documented that the finger flexor tendons of veteran climbers are up to 50% thicker than non-climbers.
39:00 – Hypertrophy results from long-term training stimulus that slightly degrades collagen…followed by a rise in collagen synthesis during a recovery period of 48 to 72 hours. This cyclic process will gradually build stronger connective tissues given appropriate mechanical loading and rest periods. Nutrition plays an important role in the process, too—more on this in a bit!
41:35 – Sinew has poor blood flow compared to muscles…and there’s scant blood flow to sinew after training.
44:45 – Homeostasis perturbation from long-term overtraining (under-resting and perhaps poor nutrition) leads to disorganized and damaged collagen fibrils…that may be the root cause of the sudden “surprise” finger pulley tweak or onset of painful tendons in the elbows and shoulders.
48:15 – Finding #3: There is a proven nutritional intervention that increases collagen synthesis in connective tissues…and can support sinew recovery and strengthening. Research by Keith Baar and Greg Shaw has shown a doubling of collagen synthesis with vitamin C enriched hydrolyzed collagen consumed 30 to 60 minutes before exercise.
55:30 – Why nutrients consumed after exercise aren’t as effective for nourishing tendons. Synovial fluid diffusion during mechanical loading is the primary method of nourishment to sinew—thus, consuming a glycine and proline rich food before training is the best method of “feeding” sinew.
59:20 – My morning ritual for optimally feeding the tendon and ligaments of my fingers, arms and shoulders—15 minutes to stronger tendons. Supercharged Collagen works!
1:03:00 – You are playing a role in your tendon health…every day! Cease the opportunity to play an active role in the process.
1:04:10 – Introducing PhysiVāntage! Our flagship product is Supercharged Collagen. Based on the research of Drs. Baar and Shaw, this is the most advanced tendon and ligament support supplement on the market. Use it daily to get a PhysiVantage!
Get 10% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code SAVE10 at checkout.
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Music by: Misty Murphy
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