#86: The Road to 5.13a - A Personalized Training Strategy with Ryan Devlin
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
How to Climb Your Best on a Hard Route
In the spring as you're talking about kind of the spring foundation building phase with regard to my training how important is it that I'm fully primed and rested and peaking to try that 12 B or that 12 C which will take me a maximal amount of effort. It would be counterproductive to do a hard workout the day before you go to the crack and maybe even two days before because especially for older people but also some younger people it can take 48 hours or more to fully recover from a hard workout. In the in the summer I think it gets easier because your goal is not peak performance if it's 90 degrees with 70% humidity that's not a peak performance kind of day for most people
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