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The Future of Big Wave Surfing
Big wave surfers are rejoicing that it's going to be like an El Nino winter. "Being in the mountains to me is far scarier than actually riding big waves" Big waves, like, oh, it's only a 50 to 60 80 70 foot wave on the face or these mountains are 2000 vertical feet. You have five hundred foot cliffs, avalanches coming behind you that'll barely can't swim up.