305: Matthias Trum of Schlenkerla Isn't Preserving the Ashes, He's Keeping the Rauchbier Fire Burning
Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine Podcast
How to Make the Smok to Beer
Bamberg has been the keepers of the old secrets and of the old tradition. It's interesting to think about that same question that every brewery and every age faces. The yeast plays one of the most important roles in brewing. No matter what style and recipe you choose, it influences flavor, aroma, acidity, brightness, and mouthfeel all at the same time.
Matthias Trum is the sixth-generation brewer at Bamberg’s Heller-Trum Bräu—better known as Schlenkerla—and he is as obsessed with local history as he is with producing world-class smoked lagers via their old-fashioned methods.
Bamberg has a long history of brewing, and Trum is a great student of that history—and his family has played an important role in it. In this episode, he immerses us in that story, discussing:
- old family brewing logs that detail strong beers as well as lower-strength ones made from second runnings
- the true story of rauchbier, and Schlenkerla’s role in preserving its legacy
- details on Schlenkerla’s own wood-fired malting process, and the old practice of using different types of wood
- the non-linear intensity of the smoky character in Schlenkerla’s beers
- the importance of decoction to fermentation and flavor
- the flavor contribution of their direct-fire copper kettles
- the trick of balancing smoke and malt with evident hop bitterness
- experimenting with malts smoked by different woods and paired with different aroma hops
- balancing the non-smoked yet subtly smoky Helles Lagerbier
- how hyper-inflation led to the development of the Helles
And more.
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