The First Day I Went Surfing at Malibu

Cathy lived about 15 miles away in Brentwood but her parents were out Dorsy and they loved the beach so she'd been going to Malibu since she was a baby. So there was a group of guys you know from 1948 or so that my mom used to take a couple of those guys to the beach to Malibu and took the boards and the rumblesies. I remember them in the pit. That's when that was called the pit. Usually they were in the pit, which is now known as the surf zone. But we always went to Malibu. We didn't stumble upon them. You can read Cathy's diary here: http://www.mailonline.