Is It Hard to Be a Surfer?

I grew up in Los Angeles. There's been a lot of glamour. The ocean really grounded me, I felt like my fellow surfers did spending time on the North Shore being with Hawaiian certainly did. To become famous in this really strange way and in a thing that is so deeply emotional was probably the hardest thing for me. You know, as, as weird as it all was, yeah, it was, I was just trying to be me and just heal and, and get on with it. Yes, for sure.