The Epiphany of Surfing

"I was a geek kid. We had that early home computer that no one quite knew what it was going to do, but you kind of felt like you should at least know what it did," he says. "And I got pretty interested in knowing what it did ... So I was quite into that." He went out to South Korea during the civil conflict and realized: 'I didn't know where I always came from' It's not just about surfing for many people; there is more than just getting in the ocean.