The Fifth Column cover image

187 w/ Bari Weiss "Karens in the Ramble, Section 230"

The Fifth Column

CHAPTER

White People Are Using New Hitherto Exotic Ingredients

White cooking personalities like Alison Roman and many of the Bon Appetit Test Kitchen stars who have had viral success using them. The idea of using new hitherto exotic ingredients only seems to become aspirational when those ingredients appear in the pages of prominent taste making magazines, perhaps more relevantly on Instagram or espoused by white tastemakers. As the culinary has become a marker of contemporary culture, occupying much of the space monopolized by music or fashion, food media and social media have fused to create a supercharged form of aspiration within this mode of desire.

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