49. The Hidden Power of Language
Shit You Don't Learn in School
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The Unrepeatable Nature of Life
The japanese word, echigo e c e, is treasuring the unrepeatable nature of a moment. I think it's really easy to forget that common humanity. If we had people more commonly using this term, i do wonder whether that would make even a fraction of a difference. That's actually the essence of what makes surfing such a beautiful sport.
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