Surfing - Who Are Your Heroes?

When you grow up in Hawaii, you're on an island in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. And so it's like being in the front of the boat, you just get hit by everything that the ocean can throw at you and it's, you're really exposed. Some of my earliest memories were at the beach at Pipeline, which is one of the, not only one of the great surf break, multiple surf breaks in the world, but also one of the most dangerous beaches in the world. You just kind of get used to that. That's just what your norm is. So when I was a little kid, they were more on my, my same level. Butch Van