EP 199: Will Anglin & Matt Jones — A Masterclass in How to Progress Your Climbing
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Taking Care of Your Skin and Bringing Snacks While Climbing
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Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I’ve ever recorded. It’s a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don’t skip this episode!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-matt
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro/Ads
(00:03:55) – Introducing to Matt Jones
(00:06:43) – The goal of this episode, and who it’s for
(00:09:20) – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced
(00:12:37) – Reminder about timestamps
(00:13:31) – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)
(00:20:24) – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they’re missing
--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--
(00:23:45) – Beginner | Overview
(00:23:45) – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence
(00:25:53) – Beginner | Strong Not Good
(00:27:35) – The Hammer
(00:28:51) – Not everything is a nail
(00:30:00) – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer
(00:34:06) – Beginner | Good Not Strong
(00:34:06) – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset
(00:34:47) – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)
(00:36:18) – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing
(00:41:48) – Interventions for beginners
(00:46:35) – Identifying the low-hanging fruit
(00:47:40) – Beginner | Summary
(00:51:11) – Using climbing as a training intervention
(00:53:41) – Checking your ego
(00:55:27) – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing
--INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--
(00:59:06) – Intermediate | Overview
(00:59:06) – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades
(01:01:42) – “Oh no, now what?!”
(01:03:22) – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber
(01:05:24) – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years
(01:07:14) – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story
(01:10:09) – Trying hard vs. trying well
(01:12:10) – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing
(01:13:30) – Understanding exactly what you’re doing, and why it is working or not working
(01:17:54) – Intermediate | Strong Not Good
(01:18:51) – Chunking
(01:20:25) – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta
(01:22:47) – The guess and check model, and turning new dials
(01:25:21) – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line
(01:27:50) – Hip in vs. square drill
(01:29:43) – Building a process for problem-solving
(01:30:16) – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber
(01:33:38) – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training
(01:39:20) – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers
(01:43:00) – Why you shouldn’t punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy
(01:48:20) – Separating practice, training, and performance
(01:50:11) – Intermediate | Good Not Strong
(01:50:11) – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first
(01:56:34) – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves
(02:03:19) – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray
(02:04:33) – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position
(02:07:12) – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train
(02:10:31) – The optimal training plan doesn’t exist, and it’s ok to have fun
--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--
(02:16:25) – Advanced | Overview
(02:18:41) – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic
(02:21:46) – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong
(02:23:57) – Occupying the position
(02:29:14) – Mobility and sensation
(02:33:33) – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta
(02:37:57) – The Golfer study
(02:41:00) – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will’s beef with strength metrics
(02:43:23) – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete
(02:46:31) – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt
(02:51:23) – Misusing tools from the pros
(02:56:50) – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser
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