Embracing everything life has to offer, by Garrett McNamara
Meditative Story
The Pain of Surfing
"I feel like I have a monkey on my back, but now I'm trying to carry that monkey with a wrecked shoulder," he says. "Every time is gnarly, the pain is deep and dark, I try to embrace it." He adds: "If I'm not chasing the next wave, what am I going to do instead? As Nicole gently pulls on my arm, massaging the knots in the muscle, she tells me to think about everything I can still do"
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