The Best Surfer Out There Is the One That's Having the Most Fun

Surfing badly is still a very fun activity that will bring you joy. The waves are too big, but it's just fun. There's plenty of good beginner wind here. Unlike with most other activities I've done, I was able to focus not on the product, being able to catch a huge wave and how it felt to be lying on the board. Like Tom Vanderbilt, I didn't really figure out how to stand up on the board during that first lesson. And I got more salt water up my nose in that hour and a half lesson than I have in an entire life.