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6min chapter
Big Wave Physics with Kai Lenny
StarTalk Radio
The Physics of Waves
Hawaiian surfer Neil Perry talks about the physics of his tricks. He says there's no two waves ever alike, even at a perfect spot. Do you know in advance what trip you're about to perform? Or do you have to make intuitive on-the-spot calculations? "I think I had so much energy sitting down wasn't kind of my calling"
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