
#86 Laird Hamilton - The Greatest Big Wave Surfer of All Time | Part 1
Shawn Ryan Show
Surfing Through Childhood: A Hawaiian Tale
This chapter recounts the formative early years of a child in San Francisco, exploring themes of adventure and family as they navigate life in Hawaii during the vibrant 1960s. It details the deep connection to the ocean, surfing culture, and the complexities of family dynamics, particularly with a stepfather and brother. Personal anecdotes illustrate the challenges, bravery, and cultural richness of growing up in a diverse Hawaiian community.
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