Brians Questions:

Hey guys, thanks for answering all of my questions in the past. I have something a little different this time. While cutting a mortise on the router table into a leg, I accidentally touched the outside of the leg to the router bit and did some damage. I happen to have the offcut and the grain is a perfect match (see photo). What would be your process to go about repairing this so it is near invisible? My thought was to use a wheel marking guage and chisels to remove a sliver of the leg. I have no idea how to cut a perfectly matching piece from the offcut to fit into that removed material. In order for the grain to match, the repair piece can't be oversized and would have to fit perfectly. This is on the outside of the leg and will be seen. Or is that a little unreasonable and would you not match the grain perfectly? Thanks, Jeff

Howdy fellas,
Love the podcast, thanks for what you do. For the sake of space and cleanliness, I've decided to get rid of my table saw. It's an 80's era Delta Unisaw that runs great, but doesn't have any safety features and the dust collection is wanting. Rather than upgrading, I plan to use my bandsaw + planer/jointer for ripping, tracksaw + MFT for cross cutting and router table for joinery. The only thing I haven't quite figured out is cross cutting short pieces, anything <8 inches is too short for my MFT + track saw. So far I use the bandsaw + shooting board if I have a lot to do, or handsaw + shooting board if it's a one off. It works, but I feel like there's an easier way I'm just not seeing. Y'all have talked before about workflows without table saws so I'm wondering what you would do. And no, I don't have a miter saw. Is it worth getting a small miter saw or contractor table saw just for short crosscuts? Thanks again for your insights.
-Bryan

Guys Questions:

You guys have the best woodworking podcast on the web, and I think you are fans of shellac like I am.
Just about any finish for me starts with a few layers of shellac.
Every once in a while, I will notice a defect in the wood, like sanding scratch marks, under the shellac while applying it.
So, of course I sand out the bad spot and apply a bit of shellac over the repair.
But the act of sanding through the shellac to the wood has effected the surface. The wood doesn't want to accept the shellac.
I put coat after coat on the spot that I sanded, but its not building up.
Sometimes I sand the surface between coats and I can see the repair shellac I have been putting down has been migrating to the periphery of the repair spot. Like a little berm around the effected area. I know the spot where I sanded will be a few thousanths lower than the rest, but the shellac just doesn't want to be there. Like the surface where where I sanded down to wood has become shellac-phobic.
I did a test on African Mahogony and after 8 coats, I got the surface of the board uniform.
Have you ever seen this ?
Is there a name for this problem?
Do you have a better solution than just keep putting down more coats of shellac ?
I would include an image if I can figure out how to on this Chat.
Steve in Windsor sps1@cogeco.ca
Eventually I can get the surface uniform.

Where do you see veneering having the greatest impact, such as bent lamination, solid pattern the top of furniture, inlays, marquetry, etc?
George

Huys Questions:

Hello,
Like everyone else, I enjoy listening to your podcast while working in shop. I make shadow boxes with my CNC and have a question about my assembly methods. I start by making an 8/4 panel and a 4/4 panel to cut the shapes out on my CNC. I use the 8/4 piece for the body of the box and the 4/4 for the top face. I cut a rabbet on the 8/4 to set a piece of acrylic glass in leaving about a 1/16" gap for movement. I then glue the top 4/4 face to the body using small dowels for alignment. I'm using flat sawn lumber and the grain of the body and the face run the same direction. I make a removable plywood back to gain access to the box. The width of the body and face is only 2" and the overall size of the box is generally 25"x30".
I'm concerned about wood movement and the top face splitting due to movement at a different rate than the bottom piece. Any thoughts on this and do you have any suggestions on other assembly methods?
ALSO - Would you have different thoughts if the grain of the 8/4 body ran perpendicular to the grain of the 4/4 top face piece?
Hope all that makes sense, you can see examples of what I'm doing on my facebook - seven cities woodworks
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/1GM2wxMGiR/
Please remove the face book link if you share my question on the webpage. I'm not looking for advertisement here.
Thank you for all the valuable information you share and hope to hear your feedback!
Chad

I recently acquired a Fuji Minimite 5 stage Platinum hvlp spray system with T75G gravity gun. I also purchased 1.0mm and 1.8mm aircap sets and 3M PPS 2.0 lids and liners.
I seek your advice on how / when I need to clean my spray gun. Let’s say I’m spraying multiple coats every 6 hours over a period of 2 days. Do I clean the gun fully (disassemble and fully clean out) between each coat or only after I apply the last coat? If not full gun cleaning between coats, what’s the minimum cleaning I need to do between coat? Does the type of finish I use change this? I will be spraying shellac, solvent and waterborne poly, waterborne primer, waterborne latex paint, etc.
Bonus related question, what additional accessories would you recommend I buy for this spray system? For example I already bought the remote control for power. What else could improve my spraying?
Thank you for a great podcast!
Max
Greddie Woodworks

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