Eric Hörst is the author of the international bestselling book Training for Climbing and the founder of PhysiVantage. We talked about his dual career as a meteorologist and climbing coach, early route development, how training has evolved, the roles of campusing vs. hangboarding in improving finger strength, why coaching is like 3D chess, and how to train your core.
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“NUGGET15” for 15% off of full-priced PhysiVantage products
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patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing
Show Notes:
http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/eric-horst-part-1
Nuggets:
6:01 – Weatherman
11:31 – Snowstorms, solving complex puzzles, and similarities between forecasting weather and training for climbing
15:18 – The best send conditions
17:38 – TV weather and developing routes in the New River Gorge
18:56 – Eric’s first day of climbing
21:15 – Patron Question from Max (Eric’s history climbing in PA, and early development at the New)
24:29 – Patron Question from Adriel (the early days at the New River Gorge)
27:27 – Favorite first ascents from the New
28:32 – Embracing bolting and sport climbing
34:17 – The style of bolting in the 90s, becoming a student of climbing, and Eric’s first training articles
38:24 – The training paradigm in the 80s (“climber’s don’t train”)
40:56 – Early training experiments, wooden blocks on the rafters, pull-ups for slab climbing, and the revolution of climbing gyms
47:42 – The modern “weekend warrior”
49:13 – Early intuitive training methodologies, and the “shotgun approach” to training
56:17 – Applying the 80/20 rule to training
1:00:21 – The mental side of climbing, and not getting too focused on one training implement
1:07:53 – Patron Question from Matt (the dos and don’ts of hiring a coach)
1:12:33 – A new paradigm in connective tissue training
1:16:40 – The different effects of hangboarding vs. campusing on finger tendons
1:24:33 – How to combine hangboarding and campus boarding to balance performance and resiliency
1:29:53 – Patron Question from Liam (benefits of linear and non-linear programs)
1:34:59 – End range strength, and the 3D chess of coaching
1:41:42 – Core strength, and limiting belief systems
1:47:05 – Deadlifting
1:52:43 – Weighted planks
1:54:31 – Deadlifting + bouldering with small footholds
1:59:16 – Reinventing your training, and sticking with things long enough to see if they work
