Rugby in South Africa wasn't just a white sport belatedly embraced by non-whites. It was a sport that had been played for generations by black and mixed race communities. A huge culture of rugby centered in what is today called Eastern Cape Province. The oldest team was established in 1887, but now the stadium looks like it could be in a war zone. And to understand how far things have fallen, I went to Dan Krakwerstadium - home of black rugby.