The Death of the Water

I was riding like a ninow long board, just like meat head surfer. I think i was under fke, 30, forty seconds, which feels like five minutes. It's the death of the water. Happen in jersey that in casrika and pakaplya, those waves getting arly there. Theyli fo much of the beach break. Pohye, vicious. And also, you know, surfing specifically, em, you surf big waves, and like, sometimes youre trying to get out, and it's like impossible, and you want to give up. So, amazing life lessons: perseverance, to push through. You're fighting mother nature