Episode #59 - Back to Basics: Time-Tested Training That Works!
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
How to Train for Climbing
You should be doing some fingerboard training if you're serious about taking your climbing to the next level. Weighted pull-ups are a protocol to get stronger pulling muscles for climbing. Frenchese is a type of pull-up that I helped popularize 25 years ago.
There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do.
Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise?
In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing.
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Podcast Rundown
4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing.
4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training.
6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37!
9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing.
10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today!
10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance.
15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program.
17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given.
20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation.
25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40.
28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results.
30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!"
32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers!
35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing.
37:24 - #1: Climb frequently!
39:30 - #2: Hangboard train!
44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups
45:35 - #4: Frenchies
48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing
50:15 - #6: Route climbing
54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals
57:42 - #8: Campus board training
58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses)
1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout)
1:05:22 - Final thoughts....
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
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And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing
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