Follow-Up: Steve Bechtel — Active Recovery: Everything You Need to Know (Teaser)
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
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The Role of Active Recovery at the Crack
In a study, high level female climbers did pumpy 511 until volitional failure. Then they took 20 minutes to rest and then followed that with another pump out effort on the same route. The people doing passive recovery after 10 minutes had their lactate concentrations rise by 1%. And so if you think about yourself at the crag, what do I do in that ensuing period that would enhance my ability? It turns out that this active recovery on the bike would be the best choice.
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