Choosing the Right Materials for Cold Weather Clothing

James and Shereen discuss how to stay warm in the coldest winter yet and the warmest winter of the rest of our lives, because it will only get worse with Climate Change.

Clothing in the cold

Overall principles - cotton kills, it gets wet and stays wet and can freeze you

- It is not so much about staying dry as making sure you can dry off quickly

- Based on Mark Twight’s system , you essentially want to create a warm microclimate around your body which is warmer than the microclimate and will encourage and allow vapour transfer out into the world, not keep vapour around you

Base layer

Here you’re looking to wick moisture away from the skin and insulate while you’re warm. You want something that fits and allows you to move

Consider that wool can get misshapen and has to be treated with care but it doesn’t small like synthetic and it won’t melt and stick to you. Wool drys slower as well .

Don’t go too thick here, if it heats up or you heat up it really sucks to be locked into a thick warm base layer, I’d rather have a warmer active insulation layer and be able to strip down to a light base layer, for example when xc skiing uphill

Right now I am using a Black Diamond Rhythm which is a blend called Nuyarn, https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/m-ls-rhythm-tee/ 

when things get colder I have a 1/4 zip Artilect base 125gsm layer which I love. https://www.artilect.studio/us/m-boulder-125-1-4-zip-2211121-db-bk-1223#selection.color=6584 

 If you’re looking for value, I think Helly Hansen synthetic base layers are great, I have some that I got when I was 18. https://www.amazon.com/Helly-Hansen-Lightweight-Breathable-Baselayer/dp/B001N2MLYC/ref=asc_df_B001N2MLYC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312128224504&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3455986774775180687&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031340&hvtargid=pla-559593705576&psc=1&mcid=c1a5450b28a23d6ba978cf0b812277bb&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI69D566vlgwMViNLCBB1ofw77EAQYAiABEgLFGPD_BwE 

For legs I really like the kuiu base layer underwear with side zips and sized tk not overlap with socks

https://www.kuiu.com/products/ultra-merino-145-zip-off-bottom-charcoal?variant=40340172701854 

Wind layer

This takes the bite out of the wind while remaining breathable . It needs to be cut big enough to move around in and go over your active insulation , and possibly your parka for protecting it in camp. For this reason some people advocate for a thing wind shirt which you can wear UNDER layers and a soft-shell which provides abrasion tresistance and is sized to go over layers

I love the mountain hardware kor air shell . The Pertex quantum air fabric is incredible and it’s very small and light https://www.mountainhardwear.com/p/mens-kor-airshell-hoody-1985031.html?dwvar_1985031_color=357 

A more robust wind layer that is very well respected is the Arcteryx Gamma, it’s got a higher denier face fabric which will make it much more durable. It stretches well, is warmer,  and is fine for light rain https://arcteryx.com/us/en/shop/mens/gamma-hoody?cmpid=pm|mult|perf|google|Arc%27teryx_Google-PMAX_S22_Performance_BOF_R:NAM_C:USA_L:EN|All_Products||{ad_id}&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pm|mult|perf&utm_campaign=Arc%27teryx_Google-PMAX_S22_Performance_BOF_R:NAM_C:USA_L:EN&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwa_ByKzlgwMVwBOtBh3cgwz9EAQYASABEgL_ivD_BwE 

A budget option is the British surplus smock, but these are a lot heavier and bulkier https://www.militarysurplusworld.com/product-eng-15751-BRITISH-SMOCK-WITH-HOOD-DESERT-MILITARY-SURPLUS-USED.html 

Legs

In general I would say I like to find pants that allow for venting but also block some of the wind.

I’m a huge fan of the beyond rig light pants because the mesh pockets also act as vents. I also like to have a kneepad pocket, and a built in adjustable bungee cuff on the bottom. https://beyondclothing.com/products/a5-rig-light-backcountry-pant 

A slightly less technical pant I enjoy is the prana stretch Zion which I also love to climb in. https://www.prana.com/p/stretch-zion-pant-ii/1969791.html?dwvar_1969791_color=Cacao&dwvar_1969791_size=34&dwvar_1969791_dimension=32&mid=compshop&eid=google&nid=tnt_shopping_br_past_season_lf&oid=mens_bottoms&did=pla-293946777986&gid=6&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrvvqga3lgwMVHQytBh29ogzOEAQYAiABEgJH8vD_BwE

When it’s really cold I’ll use beyond testa soft shell  fleece lined pants

https://beyondclothing.com/products/k5-testa-softshell-pant

For work stuff, I really lie Truwerk https://truewerk.com/collections/workwear-pants-shorts-bibs?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIwMKW-azlgwMVARKtBh0nGw0QEAAYASACEgIjbPD_BwE 

Active insulation -The mid layer isn’t a great term, it was invented when people used wool or fleece which weren’t blocking wind very well so needed an outer layer . This is a layer that keeps us warm, but doesn’t make us overheat when we are working hard. We want to look for something with a breathable material and/ or mechanical venting.These layers are great to sleep in if you’re camping.

I really like grid fleece pattern layers for this, down tends to be too hot and doesn’t breathe as well. Beyond has some great ones like the alpha aurora ( https://beyondclothing.com/products/mens-alpha-aura-jacket) or the celeris which I like but they stopped making . I look for Polartec’s alpha (needs backing material) or alpha direct fabric (doesn’t need) , it’s very warm. I particularly like the mammut alpha 60 (donating 60gsm fleece weight) which they don’t make any more, 90gsm is a bit warmer . A great value option here is the U.S. gi waffle top https://militarydepotusa.com/gen-iii-level-ii-underwear-tan-waffle-top-military-issue/  .

The outdoor vitals Vario (or the vents which is lighter) is a bit of an outlier here. It’s a synthetic insulated hoodie. The vents has mesh under arms and a 1/4 zip and it’s incredibly warm and light. I generally don’t like a combo wind / insulation layer but this thing is fantastic https://outdoorvitals.com/products/vario-jacket 

Static insulation - This is your big warm jacket, to be thrown on when you stop moving.

People tend to lean to down here but consider that lower quality does can compact, and if it’s not treated well it will fail to insulate if it gets wet. Good modern down is treated with DWR so it keeps loft in the wet. It is the warmest/ weight option and it packs well.  

You want to look at the fill power of the down, this can go from 400-900 approx higher numbers indicate a better quality jacket. The number comes from a lab test that measures how many cubic inches of loft one ounce of that down fill produces. Higher fill power numbers indicate greater loft and insulating efficiency.

You also want to look at the fill weight, the amount of down used in the pier of gear. A lower fill power jacket with the same fill weight as a higher fill power jacket will be less warm. But a 400 fill power jacket with 60g fill weight will be as warm as a 800 fill power jacket with 30g fill weight , however the former will weigh more and be less packable.  For me I like to go above 100 when it’s below freezing but I get cold a lot

Consider the denier count of the face fabric, it can go from single digits to 70 ish and a more durable face fabric will prevent you tearing it and losing down. I would also not opt for a jacket with tons of baffles as places where there are baffles are uninsulated and every stitch is a hole. a thinner face fabric is going to need babying around camp, or a layer over it

Where synthetic really stands out is that it can stand up to more weather, it’s also cruelty free. It can be heavier and pack a bit less well. Here you don’t get a fill power , but you do get a fill weight. Primaloft is the brand to look for here, as their synthetic insulation’s are very well respected and they have biodegradable and post consumer recycled downs. Right now my main belay parka is a Beyond Anchor Belay Jacket https://beyondclothing.com/collections/jackets/products/mens-anchor-k7-belay-jacket  when it’s really cold I have a Helly Hansen Odin jacket https://www.hellyhansen.com/en_us/odin-lifa-pro-belay-jacket-63108?color=627661 

For a down option I can’t find fault in the Decathlon offerings and they are great value and have ethically sourced down.  https://www.decathlon.com/products/forclaz-mt100-hooded-down-puffer-jacket-167571?variant=32494250360894&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsemi-q7lgwMVGR-tBh0isgwkEAQYASABEgKlBvD_BwE 

The ultralight subreddit does a great job of ranking full power / weight / price as well  

Size up to go over your other layers

Waterproof - this is for sustained downpours. Far too many people us gore Tex when a set wind layer would be fine. With water loots you have your laminates , with a waterproof layer, like goretex and PerTex, and your waterproof coatings on an otherwise non waterproof fabric .

With a waterproof you want a three layer , that way the fabric is protected on the inside and doesn’t need a heavy and bulky hanging mesh liner like you get in a 2 layer . I suggest a minimum of a 2.5 layer

Waterproofing is expressed in terms of the height of a water column in mm, or in pounds / square inch. Higher numbers are better if you’re often kneeling in snow or we ground. Another, more useful stat, is mm of rain in 24 hours, a higher number in the 20k range indicates a jacket that won’t wet out on long wet days , gore Tex pro is at 28,000. Breathability is quantified in terms of mvtr, again over 20k is good here

You’ll also want to look for seams that are taped , so water can’t get in, and a good quality waterproof zip and mechanical vents . Hovering around freezing I like a jacket that I can get over my parka

For static waterproofing, consider wax over gore tex. It’s much better for the planet and it’s totally waterproof. I wax my own stuff all the time, and fjallraven has good wax to use for that . Filson (https://www.filson.com/tin-cloth-short-lined-cruiser-jacket.html?source=google&medium=cpc&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlerf5q_lgwMVhQytBh0L9gJ8EAQYASABEgIXG_D_BwE#sku=20232828-fco-000000050 ) , Barbour, you can easily was a carport jacket

I have an emergency jacket with 20-40 denier fabric that packs very easily , it’s my jacket for when I doubt there will be rain , I  like the mountain hardwear minimizer (https://www.mountainhardwear.com/p/mens-minimizer-gore-tex-paclite-plus-jacket-%7C-418-%7C-m-888663704981.html) . This is Goretex Paclite which is cheaper than Goretex pro but acceptable for occasional use

I also have an “it’s going to be wet all day” jacket which I got from forloh, it’s the all clima 3 and I like the mechanical venting and the fact that is quiet . It’s. It cheap but it’s a great piece https://forloh.com/products/allclima-mens-rain-jacket-3l

Always clean and reproof your jackets with nixwak https://www.nikwax.com/en-us/ 

Extremities

You want socks that aren’t too tight, wool tends to be preferred. I really like the Feetures , darn tough and swift wick socks. Alpaca wool socks are very warm , I like paka https://www.pakaapparel.com/

Hats, I like a wool hat unless it’s very wet. I have a nice Velocio wool beanie https://velocio.cc/ , and an icebreaker very thin one https://www.icebreaker.com/en-us/hats-neckwear/cool-lite-merino-flexi-beanie/0A56FMU2.html?dwvar_0A56FMU2_color=001&dwvar_0A56FMU2_US=in_line 

Gloves, I have some very thin gore tex infirm gloves that are very warm https://www.gorewear.com/us/en-us/m-gore-tex-infinium-stretch-gloves-100410 

, polartec power grid gloves https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/midweight-gridtech-fleece-gloves/   are also a go to for me.

I like a glove layering system , outdoor research made one for the military but annoyingly it’s not for sale to civilians

Finally a scarf or kuffiyeh https://hirbawiusa.com/ 

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