424 - Greg MacGillivray's Five Summer Stories
Surf Splendor
00:00
The Wipe Out
"i'd been in probably a hundred wipe outs, you know, where you get churned and held down. And the thing that was different is that it was like a two wave," he says. "I'm thankfully, got my nose just above the froth and got a bit of air before i passed out." He then rode a small wave in and upon the shore and just lay there for 20 minutes.
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