What Are You Worshipping?

You're practicing one ism. Maybe the greatest expression of pantheism like you just are part of it and all that kind of thing. Those are big waves. Death is there. There's no atheist out in the water at that point. It's just a matter of time till you miss time, you're paddle out and you get it. We call it getting caught inside and the wave ends up breaking on you. And the most hardened men are like crying out like God saved me. Because people die every year at pipeline. People die every year on the north or some of the best surfers in the world die on the north shore.