6min chapter

Finding Mastery with Dr. Michael Gervais cover image

Push Beyond Your Limits: Top Big Wave Surfer on The Art of Challenging the Unknown | Kai Lenny

Finding Mastery with Dr. Michael Gervais

CHAPTER

The Importance of Designing Your Life to Go, Go to the Heart

"I feel in some ways like I'm stepping outside of society's bubble and even the cops can't get me out in the water," he says. "The whole point of surfing is it's your own expression on this canvas, you're the paintbrush sort of thing." In a world where people are fatigued from stress and anxiety, surfers have more freedom than ever to make their own decisions about what they want to do with their lives. 'There's a fatigue in our humanity that is, I mean, it's dangerous, right? Like this is not a vibrant way to do life'

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