How to Nail the Perfect Cookie with NYT Cooking’s Vaughn Vreeland
The Wirecutter Show
Listener Q: Silicone Mat vs Parchment
Vaughn compares silicone mats and parchment, noting conduction differences and browning effects.
Holiday baking season is here, and nobody knows how to bake a delicious cookie better than Vaughn Vreeland, host of NYT Cooking’s Bake Time and author of the book, Cookies. In this episode, Vaughn breaks down the gear you actually need, and shares clever fixes for common cookie problems—from his best advice to using browned butter in a recipe to reducing sugar without sacrificing flavor. He also walks us through his best tricks for better texture, picture-perfect tops, and the surprising savory ingredients that make sweet cookies even better.
This episode covers:
- The essential gear every baker needs. Vaughn recommends a strong silicone spatula (“spoonula”), a cookie scoop, a rimmed baking sheet, a kitchen scale, and a cooling rack that fits inside the sheet pan are all key tools to make the baking process easier.
- Nice-to-have upgrades that actually make a difference. Vaughn says that offset spatulas, ring molds for perfectly round cookies, and oven thermometers improve consistency and confidence.
- How to troubleshoot flat or spreading cookies. Chilling the dough (always after scooping), adjusting sugar ratios, refreshing your baking soda/powder, and avoiding overcrowded pans can help with this common problem.
- How to reduce sugar without ruining texture. According to Vaughn, water is the secret ingredient in cookies. If you’re going to reduce the sugar, and possibly some of the fat, a splash of water can help rebalance the dough.
- Savory ingredients that level up cookies. Miso, olive oil, gochujang caramel, and other surprising add-ins create depth, balance sweetness, and make flavors pop.
- Lightning-round fixes for common cookie issues. Hard? Overbaked. Cakey? Too much flour. Burning on the bottom? Your oven might run hot.
- The best advice for any cookie baker. Mistakes happen—but baking should stay fun. And if all else fails, at least you’ll have a cookie at the end of the day.
Wirecutter picks for baking cookies:
- Our favorite silicone baking mat: Silpat Nonstick Silicone Baking Mat
- Our favorite spatula: GIR Mini Flip Silicone Spatula
- Our favorite cookie scoops: Norpro Grip-EZ 2-Tablespoon Stainless Scoop
- Our favorite kitchen scale: Escali Primo Digital Scale
- Our favorite baking sheet: Nordic Ware Naturals Baker’s Half Sheet
- Our favorite offset spatula: Ateco 4.5-Inch Offset Spatula 1385
- Our favorite cooling rack: Sur La Table Stainless Steel Cooling Grid
- Our favorite hand mixer: KitchenAid 7-Speed Hand Mixer
Other products Vaughn recommends:
- Cookie ring molds: Cookie Cutter Set
- An oven thermometer
NYT Cooking Cookie Recipes Vaughn mentioned:
- Cookie Week 2025 Recipes (including Mortadella Cookies)
- Eggnog Snickerdoodles
- Mexican Hot Chocolate Cookies
- Gingerbread Latte Cookies
- Chewy Brownie Cookies
- Adobo Chocolate Chip Cookies
- Gochujang Caramel Cookies
Additional reading:
- The 11 Best Spatulas of 2025
- The Best Holiday Cookie Baking Gear for 2025
- The 4 Best Kitchen Scales of 2025
- The 3 Best Baking Sheets of 2025
- The 11 Best Spatulas of 2025
- The 7 Best Butters of 2025
More Vaughn
- Vaugn’s new book: Cookies: The Best Recipes for a Perfect, Anytime Treat
- Bake Time Newsletter from NYT Cooking
- NYT Cooking on YouTube
- Vaughn’s Instagram
- Vaughn's Facebook
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The Wirecutter Show is executive produced by Rosie Guerin and produced by Abigail Keel.Engineering support from Maddy Masiello and Nick Pitman. Episodes are mixed by Catherine Anderson, Efim Shapiro, Rowan Niemisto, Sophia Lanman, and Sonia Herrero. Original music by Dan Powell, Marion Lozano, Elisheba Ittoop, and Diane Wong. Wirecutter’s deputy publisher and general manager is Cliff Levy. Ben Frumin is Wirecutter’s editor-in-chief. Hosted by Rosie Guerin, Caira Blackwell and Christine Cyr Clisset.
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