In this first installment of a two-part conversation, Steve House sits down with legendary alpinist Mark Twight for one of Voice of the Mountains' most anticipated episodes. This deeply personal dialogue - the show's first in-person recording - reunites two climbers whose friendship spans more than three decades.
The conversation opens with Twight's 2019 book Refuge and his struggle to redefine himself after stepping away from elite climbing. As the 25th anniversary of their landmark Slovak Direct climb approaches, they examine what that 60-hour nonstop ascent of Denali meant then and what it reveals now about ambition, limits, and the courage to walk away.
Twight shares candidly about the costs of single-minded pursuit: failed relationships, financial instability, and the brutal honesty required to assess one's own decline. He traces his evolution from uncompromising soloist to gym owner and trainer, including his work preparing actors for films like 300and Man of Steel.
Most powerfully, Twight reflects on the deaths of friends and mentors - Mugs Stump, Jeff Lowe, Scott Backes - and the weight of survivor's guilt. He and Steve explore what it means to remain open to relationships despite knowing the potential for loss.
Part 1 ends on a cliffhanger: the setup for Twight's harrowing survival story on Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, where four climbers hung from a single ice screw while buried by avalanche. That story continues in Part 2.
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