Dr. Tyler Nelson dives deep into all things finger strength training

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Tyler is bringing cutting edge science to the world of training for climbing and, in the process, he is blowing up myths of training that we’ve long thought to be true and helping climbers, from pros to everyday climbers, identify exactly what types of training will take their climbing performance to new heights. In graduate school Tyler completed a dual doctorate/masters degree in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading and rehabilitation. He is also a certified strength and conditioning specialist through the NSCA and teaches conferences worldwide on a host of topics. Get ready to get strong!

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Topics:

The difference between strength training protocols and hypertrophy protocols, and why many climbers are getting it wrong
How to balance off the wall finger strength training with on the wall climbing
Exploring the various methodologies of finger strength training
Why using a fingerboard doesn’t make sense for training strength in experienced climbers
Why most climbers are doing too many hang board reps that are too long for building strength
Proper set/rep schemes for building strength
Whether a no hang protocol like Emil’s viral routine is actually beneficial
Minimal edge training vs just climbing
The significant benefit of training fingers on an un-level edge
How to switch things up to build muscular endurance

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The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.

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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.

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The Struggle makes us stronger. Thank you so much for supporting this show! And if you're still reading (wow!) would you take 10 seconds to rate/review the show? Thanks so much, it makes a big difference in reaching more climbers!

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