Surfing Through Adolescence: A Journey of Passion and Craft

In this chapter, the speaker reflects on their youthful passion for surfing, beginning at the beach during childhood and evolving through high school with friends. They highlight their transformation from a boogie boarder to a dedicated surfer, influenced by family and local surf culture, while also exploring their budding interest in surfboard shaping. The narrative captures the essence of their formative experiences in the surf community, touching upon mentorship and the significance of iconic figures in surfing history.