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18min chapter
Jack Johnson
Tetragrammaton with Rick Rubin
The Evolution of Surfing from Subculture to Mainstream
In this chapter, they discuss the evolution of surfing from being a subculture to a mainstream activity. They describe the process of catching waves, using gravity and momentum to ride them, and the art of improvisation and creativity on the waves. They also mention the inspiration they felt when watching professional surfers like Kelly Slater and Jerry Lopez.
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