The Importance of Life and Death in Coaching

Steve House sees the convergence of technical climbing and mountaineering as "New Alpinism." And the athleticism required to be an all-around alpinist demands a training regimen as diverse as the skills of the blended climbing disciplines used. His coaching company, Uphill Athlete, grew from his work helping lead other alpinists, mountaineers and athletes based on personal learnings and fundamental endurance coaching.

For 21 years, Steve House was a professional climber and has been a professional mountain guide since 1992. His most famous ascent was Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face in 2005, which earned him and Vincent Anderson the acclaimed The Piolet d'Or ("Golden Ice Axe"). Reinhold Messner called him "The best high-altitude climber in the world."

He has also compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps and the Himalayas. Since retiring from professional climbing, House has coauthored "Training for the New Alpinism" and "Training for the Uphill Athlete," as well as becoming a co-founder of the coaching company Uphill Athlete.