The Insignificance of Surfing

i've had this harrowing experience particularly as someone who didn't learn to swim until i was in my 30s which is a whole separate thing that i think we covered in episode 50. When you're out there and suddenly sets come in that are 70 percent a hundred percent bigger than what you went in with the feeling of or just sitting calmly on your board waiting for a set, it's like compared to the depths of the ocean it means nothing yeah nothingYeah" "I can't find a better one spiritual experience really oh yeah that email that comment on social media that commitment i made to go to an event that i now really six months later don't want to go to who gives a fuck