The Second Avenue Deli in the East Village

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The East Village is no longer as densely Jewish as it was, but the restaurant still does a brisk lunch trade. As part of what makes Jewish delis so special, they're aggressively informal. Steve Cohen, who's managed the Second Avenue Deli for 40 years, explains how he tries to get his waiters to think. Corn beef, pastrami, smoked fish on bagels, matzabal soup: It's not all that adventurous, But done right, it's just sublime.

Our correspondent sits down with President Volodymyr Zelensky and two top military commanders—concluding that the next few months will determine the future of Ukraine. Morocco’s inspired run in the World Cup sparked much debate about its identity as an Arab country. And our co-host investigates the vanishing pleasures of American Jewish delis—over lunch, of course. Help us make the show better: take our listener survey at http://economist.com/intelligencesurvey For full access to print, digital and audio editions of The Economist, subscribe here www.economist.com/intelligenceoffer