Surphine

"Surfing is the dominant metaphor for me of life, right? It's th it's the form in which life has occurred for me," he says. "To the extent that i can surf regularly or semi regularly, it's really important for my sobriety." Surfing brings a particular demand on the brain to pay attention, you're going to drown if you don't get out there and do your thing. He also writes about working with special needs kids as well as soldiers coming back from combat who have ptst.